The following description is Paul's own words of the work performed on this model.
I was already into
the project and had started preparations for detailing the engine
compartment when I started using Mike Mueller’s "Corvette
Sting Ray 1963 – 1967" as a reference source (as Scooter
says, "Do your research before you begin!"). I quickly
realized that Ertl had made quite a few "detail" errors
with their basic platform. The ’67 L88 could not be ordered
with a radio or heater/defroster. The Ertl has a radio and heater
controls, but no heater hoses. The ’67 L88 came with the
Harrison heavy duty cross flow radiator, no fan shroud and an
expansion tank behind the passenger side front wheel well. The
Ertl has the L71 radiator with fan shroud. The ’67 L88 came
with no PCV or AIR system. Crankcase vapors were dumped overboard
via a road draft tube (the L88 was deemed illegal in California).
The Ertl doesn't have the driver side valve cover mounted road
draft tube or the passenger side valve cover mounted breather
cap. In addition, the Ertl L88 has the L71 tri-power carburetor
set-up. The ’67 L88 had a "BIG" Holley. The Ertl
also has Battery delete? Finally, the Ertl L88 inner hood detail
is completely in error and requires grinding off an incorrect
underhood ring to make it a correct L71 hood.
So, there I was,
faced with the decision to go with an incorrect L88 or perform
an even more extensive mod to make it a L71 car. By the time I
discovered all of these "detail" issues, I had already
drilled the hole for the radio antenna, fabricated the antenna
mount from "Evergreen" styrene
stock and the music wire antenna mast. So, as the "artist"
I made the decision to make the car a "civilized" L88.
I added the missing heater hoses and as the car would be "street-able",
left the L71 radiator with fan shroud. I fabricated a battery
from "Evergreen" styrene square tubing stock and flat
styrene sheet for end closures. I fabricated the battery terminals
and caps from "Evergreen" styrene rod stock. I also
fabricated a voltage regulator from "Evergreen" styrene
bar stock.
My favorite feature
added to this car is the main wire harness which runs forward
from the firewall to the front of the car with breakouts for the
alternator, voltage regulator, horn relay, headlights, etc. I
fabricated the harness by first laying it out in flat pattern.
I took measurements from the
reference book mentioned above and the model. I then cut the necessary
number of 26 gage wires (used solid conductor) to about 3.5 inches
in length and removed the insulation (insulation must be removed
to keep the harness diameter at reasonable scale). I then laid
about a foot of 3M electrical
tape on my cutting surface and as one does with BMF foil, cut
1/8 inch wide strips. To assemble the wire harness, I bundled
all of the wires together at the firewall end and started to helical
wrap the electrical tape around the wires. I put tension on the
electrical tape as I wrapped the wires to reduce its width to
look more correct. Per my measurements, I broke out the necessary
wires for the alternator, voltage regulator and horn relay. The
breakouts were wrapped with tape as well.
To install the wire harness, I drilled a 1/16-diameter hole in the firewall and pairs of 0.030 diameter holes in the fender well for mounts. I used wire pulled through the 0.030 holes and twisted on the fender well far side to retain the harness in place. The end of the harness at the front of the car was placed over the radiator support and fed into the cavity in front of the radiator. It can't be seen once the car is reassembled. In order to attach the harness I drilled holes in the alternator, voltage regulator and horn relay. The wiring at the termination locations must be painted to simulate the insulation. I used the reference book for the correct colors.
Other engine bay details included the addition of spark plug wires, coil wires, ignition wires, starter wires, engine temperature sensor wiring and battery cables. I added the lower radiator hose, water pump to intake manifold water hose, radiator overflow hose, fuel lines from the chassis to the fuel pump and fuel pump to the carburetor, throttle linkage and throttle linkage return spring. Again using "Evergreen" styrene stock, I fabricated a road draft tube for the driver side valve cover and breather cap for the passenger side valve cover. As a dress up item, I applied BMF to the valve covers. I also installed a dipstick, brake lines from the master cylinder to the chassis and vacuum hose from the power brake booster to the intake manifold. I painted the water pump, radiator cap, radiator hose clamps, engine pulleys, oil filter, starter, fuel pump, distributor cap, coil, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, power brake vacuum booster, master cylinder, trans, L88 air cleaner pan foam seal, filter screen, wing nut. under-hood and hood latches.
Inside the car I added BMF to the door panels, console and rear storage compartment trim, instrument bezels and seat backs. I used BMF to simulate doorsill scuff plates including the center black trim on the ’67 model. I fabricated wind wings from clear plastic stock and used BMF to create the frames. I installed the wind wings in a partially open position. I painted the headliner, doorframes, steering wheel, shifter knob, boot, bright metal pedal trim, door panel and dashboard knobs. Finally, I added weather strips to the doors.
The exterior of the car received BMF rocker panel trim and the rockers painted flat black below the BMF. I painted the fender louvers, cowl vents, antenna mount and grille. I added BMF to the turn signal bezels, headlights and back-up lights. I painted the side exhausts steel for a more aggressive look. Prior to painting the side exhausts I opened up their exits to achieve more realism and then painted the exits flat black. I swapped the rally wheels for 5 spoke American Racing wheels, painted the lug nuts, center caps, disc brake rotors (makes quite a difference) and windshield wiper blades. The exterior paint received Turtle Wax’s Extreme Gloss system and the windows were polished with Meguair’s plastic polish.
The Chassis received paint on the sway bars, U-joints, spare tire cover braces and front suspension components. I also painted all exposed inner body areas flat black. Finally, I lowered the front about 3/32 inch to achieve a more correct stance.
I had plenty of
challenges with this detail job and a "ton of fun" in
the
doing. If you have any questions, please do drop me an e-mail.
